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Jul 29 2008

Philadelphia's Dining Scene: What's New And Trendy?

New Openings, Major Chefs, Serious Sips, Indian Dining And Cold Comforts

New On The Scene
The region’s love affair with Mexican cuisine rages on with newcomer Azul, a 50-seat exposed brick cantina and tequila bar that serves inspired fare like achiote-braised pork enchiladas, chocolate tamales and chili-spiked brunches. Building on the phenomenal success of their Passyunk Cantina Los Caballitos, Dave Frank and Stephen Simons have brought a second location to Northern Liberties. Cantina Dos Segundos boasts a cypress bar lined with premium tequilas, Mexican beer and fresh fruit cocktails, plus a party-friendly, cross-regional menu with dishes like Michoacan carnitas and free-range turkey mole. Mexi-Cali favorite El Fuego has also expanded to a second location this summer. The new Rittenhouse Square outpost features the beloved overstuffed burritos of the original, plus a liquor license, outdoor seating and later hours on weekends.

Hearkening back to Prohibition times, JL Sullivan’s Speakeasy is a sleek new lounge in the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue. The down-low digs house private rooms where visitors can dine on cheesesteak spring rolls, truffle macaroni and cheese or center cut veal chops. An offshoot of Raw Sushi and Sake Lounge, Raw Café has set down pan-Asian roots at Boyds Philadelphia upscale clothing store. In between trying on Hugo Boss suits, shoppers can nibble on Toriny Rolls filled with spicy tuna and eel topped with torched squid and garnished with two sauces and red tobiko.

In a sleek loft building, Northern Liberties’ Café Estelle serves up cozy but highly crafted all-day fare, from freshly baked cherry scones to duck confit flatbread pizza. At night, the cooking gets even more serious with potato gnocchi served with truffle oils and mushrooms.

The upscale food court at the new Market at Comcast Center is a veritable greatest hits of Philly dining, with Termini Brothers pastries, LaScala’s pizza and DiBruno Bros. prepared salads and paninis. Speaking of one-stop-shops, a restored barn in Chester County has been transformed into the charming Northbrook Marketplace, housing a café, ice cream parlor, bakery and grocery store offering natural foods and local produce.

And since summers were made for drive-ins, Sonic Burgers has opened the first of many local car-hop franchises in the area. Located in Limerick, the burger joint features 25 drive-in stalls, root beer and plenty of nostalgia.

Major Chef Openings
Great news for foodies in the region: The season is full of big-name, high-profile openings. In Center City’s The Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia, acclaimed chef Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernadin has opened 10 Arts, an American bistro emphasizing seasonal and local products. Diners can feast on wild boar prosciutto and tuna carpaccio and choose from a vast, international selection of wines.

A collaboration of Georges Perrier and Chris Scarduzio of Brasserie Perrier, Table 31 is a steakhouse designed to be as fresh and modern as the new Comcast Center building that houses it. Menu options include wagyu tartare, short ribs and tobacco-infused bourbon, all served in the chic dining room, the banquet hall or the Plaza Cafe, the outdoor area that sits next to a bubbling fountain.

Philadelphians are well-acquainted with the restaurants of Stephen Starr, but Parc, the new French bistro in Rittenhouse Square, is the first Starr eatery to open locally in four years. Diners can expect classic Franco-fare like escargots, salade Lyonaise and trout amandine. And Starr’s signature cocktails and a stylish interior, replete with zinc bar, tobacco-stained ceiling and hand-painted tiles, are all accounted for.

Having trained at Starr’s El Vez and having made his name with his own two highly regarded Spanish restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada and Tinto), Jose Garces goes back to his roots with University City’s Distrito, an expansive, bi-level eatery with Mexico City-inspired cuisine like chili-marinated lamb chops, scallop and pineapple skewers and hibiscus cosmos.

Serious Sips
The latest frontier in the regional restaurant scene is liquid refreshments, with an endless array of small-batch spirits and bar chefs creating top-of-the-line drinks. Xochitl, the Mexican restaurant in Headhouse Square, has a long list of specialty tequilas that the bartender spins into cocktails with fresh mixers like muddled pineapple and cilantro. At Time, the new country club-style restaurant on Sansom Street, the drink of choice is whiskey, and the massive bar stocks artisan bourbons, scotches and absinthes from around the world.

The bartenders at Apothecary Bar and Lounge treat cocktails like restorative tonics, blending spirits with aloe vera, lemon verbena, valerian root and echinachea. And at Doylestown hotspot The Freight House, the luscious signature cocktails include the Blueberry Five Spice with berry puree and the Asian Pear with ginger syrup and pear-flavored vodka.

There are wine bars aplenty in the area, but Vino Volo, the California-based wine shop/bar now open at Philadelphia International Airport, is the first to cater to wine connoisseurs on the go, offering tastings, a well curated bottle selection and expert advice.

Cold Comforts
When shirt-sticking humidity sets in, the region is ready with plenty of top-notch icy confections. Summer in Philly belongs to John’s Water Ice, one of the region’s best traditional purveyors of that oxymoronic treat. Flavors are limited to cherry, lemon, chocolate and pineapple but why mess with a good thing? For unconventional palates there’s Yardley Ice House, which proffers banana cream pie and cappuccino water ice in its award-winning Bucks County store.

The maven of artisanal gelati, with two storefronts and by-the-pint distribution in many local groceries, Capogiro keeps it interesting with options like Thai coconut and rosemary honey goatsmilk gelati and champagne mango sorbet. The offerings are equally exotic at Gerenser’s Exotic Ice Cream in New Hope, where the 60-something flavor list includes Ukranian rose petal and Turkish coffee.

In the heart of Old City, The Franklin Fountain keeps it old school, scooping simple homemade ice cream into sodas, sundaes and three different variations on the banana split. The product comes fresh from the dairy farm at Chester Springs Creamery, and the ice creams, like Summer’s Sweet Strawberry and Bea’s Banana Chocolate Chunk, are named for the cows. Handel’s, a mini-chain with an always-busy location in Berwyn, churns up excitement with Girl Scout thin mint ice cream or pink champagne sherbet.

Indian Summer
If ever there was a moment for Indian food in Philadelphia, this summer is it. In the museum area, King of Tandoor is the newest addition to the local scene. True to its name, the eatery specializes in charcoal oven-barbequed meats and seafood, plus Northern specialties like chicken vindaloo and a dozen different breads. Minar Palace, the Center City quick-service favorite, will soon be reopening its doors after several years’ hiatus in a new upscale dining room. The menu includes the same affordable platters of chana masala and goat saag.

Tiffin, the wildly popular delivery business in Northern Liberties, has opened a second location in Mt. Airy, servicing the northwest corner of the city with its luscious home-style curries. On 13th Street, the BYO Bindi expands on classic dishes with seasonal, creative variations such as halibut kebabs and cardamom cake with pistachio kulfi. The food is traditional Indian at Palace at the Ben, but the modern atmosphere, creative desserts and fruity cocktails are anything but.

Gluten-Free Philadelphia
Following a gluten-free diet in Philly just got a lot easier. Recognizing that people who suffer from celiac disease often struggle to find gluten-free menu choices, the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness is creating a Philadelphia Gluten-Free Neighborhood, the first program of its kind in the nation. On September 24, 2008, 35 top local chefs will gather with doctors at Appetite for Awareness at the Wachovia Center to cook up gluten-free foods (to be washed down with gluten-free beer), while a raffle and auction will raise money for the foundation. The restaurants, including everything from gastropubs and BYO bistros to fine dining favorites, will continue to support people with celiac disease by modifying their menus with delicious gluten-free options.

Featured Chef: Alison Barshak
A self-taught chef who hails from Lafayette Hill, Alison Barshak sharpened her knife skills at the original Striped Bass before opening two of her own restaurants and serving as an executive chef at New York City’s Maritime Restaurant. Five years ago, Barshak returned to the region and created Alison at Blue Bell, where she draws from local, seasonal ingredients, dressing them up with intensely flavored ethnic twists: ginger-fried squid with wasabi drizzle and mango slaw or lamb served over date couscous with merguez sausage and harissa. Barshak is now readying her second venture, Alison two, in nearby Fort Washington. The new restaurant will feature a full bar, private dining rooms and more of Barshak’s contemporary American cuisine.

Featured Neighborhood: University City
With its global population and vibrant student life, University City is a gastronomic paradise. Clustered around University of Pennsylvania’s campus are long-running stalwarts like the homey White Dog Café, which has been offering an environmentally conscious menu by sourcing local and seasonal ingredients and filling its calendar with community events for more than two decades. Sunny Las Tarascas en Zocalo was recently renovated by new owners but continues to serve the Mexican dishes (grilled ahi tuna in poblano cream sauce) that made it famous.

Fine dining options abound here. Penne, an Italian restaurant and wine bar located at the Inn at Penn, turns out grilled squid in lemon basil citronette, grilled sirloin over cauliflower gratin fresh handmade pastas. Stephen Starr’s Pod goes for the wow factor with conveyor belt sushi, inventive pan-Asian cooking (kimchee-fried rice and fluffernutter spring rolls are served alongside the sushi) and space odyssey décor. In the Cira Centre building, Rae combines sleek bistro décor with intriguing creations like smoked rabbit nachos, striped bass and veal blanquette and cucumber sake cocktails.

For the BYO crowd, cozy townhouse Marigold Kitchen boasts the city’s finest nouveau Southern cuisine, with chef Erin O’Shea whipping up artisanal grits and shrimp and pork chop with raisin vinaigrette. Nan fuses Thai and French traditions; diners can indulge in chicken lemongrass soup and spaghettini with lump crab in an understated dining room.

Of course, the neighborhood caters to its younger population with more affordable eats in an array of international flavors. The classic Ethiopian eatery Dahlak encourages togetherness with family-style lamb, beef and vegetarian stews meant to be scooped up with spongy injera bread. Newly revamped New Delhi Indian Restaurant has a full menu of Northern Indian masalas and kormas, plus a budget- and veggie-friendly buffet.

A brewery and pizzeria in a former firehouse, Dock Street Brewery and Restaurant pairs its in-house pilsners and stouts with interesting pies (gorgonzola fig jam and bacon) and excellent beer-battered fish and chips. Pattaya Grill trades in both classic Thai fare like fried tofu triangles and papaya salad and exotic dishes like alligator curry and basil venison. A sibling to Chinatown’s popular Vietnam Restaurant, Vietnam Café offers an edited version of the original menu (beef-stuffed grape leaves, catfish in a clay pot and vermicelli galore) in a modern intimate setting.

ADDRESS BOOK

New On The Scene:

Major Chef Openings:

Serious Sips:

Cold Comforts:

Indian Summer:

Gluten-Free:

Featured Chef: Alison Barshak:

  • Alison at Blue Bell, 722 Skippack Pike, Blue Bell, (215) 641-2660, www.alisonatbluebell.com
  • Alison two, 424 Bethlehem Pike, Ft. Washington

Featured Neighborhood: University City:

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